While some people tend to leave them as-is until they make too much noise, others know that mechanical valves are prone to loosening at any time reducing the bikes designed performance. Adjusting the valves is an important part of a tune up. Engine and transmission Displacement: 535.0 ccm (32.65 cubic inches) Engine type: V2, four-stroke: Power: 44.0 HP (32.1 kW)) Torque: 48.0 Nm (4.9 kgf-m or 35.4 ft.lbs) Top speed:A djusting Virago valves is not a difficult task and can be accomplished by a novice. Compare with any other bike. Yamaha XV 535 Virago: Year: 1997: Category: Custom / cruiser: Rating: 3.3 See the detailed rating of design and look, maintenance cost, engine performance, etc.
The engine produces a maximum peak output power of 44.00 HP (32.1 kW) and a maximum torque of 48.00 Nm (4.9 kgf-m or 35.4 ft.lbs). In this version sold from year 1997 , the dry weight is 182.0 kg (401.2 pounds) and it is equipped with a V2, four-stroke motor. Year 1997.The Yamaha XV 535 Virago model is a Custom / cruiser bike manufactured by Yamaha. Vadnais Heights, Minnesota. With just a few simple, tools you will be able to set the valves to factory specs.10 new and used Yamaha Virago 535 motorcycles for sale at smartcycleguide.com.
1997 Yamaha Virago 535 Specs Manual Da Moto
Be sure it is on solid level ground.I t is very important that you work in a clean area free of dirt, sand, etc. 13/16″ spark plug socket or use from Virago tool kitP lace the bike on its center stand. 10, 12, 17, and (22mm deep) sockets and 3/8″ drive ratchet XV535 MANUAL DE SERVIOSMar / 99 - Yamaha Motor do Brasil. MANUAL DA YAMAHA VIRAGO 535 cc 1. 010 thicknessDownload Manual Da Moto Virago 535 Specs free and unlimited.
Remove the air filter on the right side and the emissions pod on the left side.(84 and later Viragos only) If you follow this removal order, it will be easy to re-assemble by reversing the order. This will ease re-assembly and you won’t lose parts (Hopefully).B efore you can adjust the valves, there are a few parts which need to be removed for easy access to the valve covers. Lay the sub-assemblies on the rag as if it were mounted on the bike, keeping the nuts and bolts in their proper position. This helps you to be organized and to know what bolt goes where. If you are new at this, it is always a good idea to layout rags for sub-assemblies being removed.
There is a rubber “O” ring under it. Be sure to turn it counter-clockwise. Remove the 17mm crank access cover. (Three phillips hd screws) Remove the cover from the left side case. This will make it easier to rotate the engine.
Look for the exhaust pipe coming out of the cylinder head and that’s the exhaust valve above it. Exhaust valves have the most clearance because they get the hottest. This will make it easier to select a given size. Lay-out your feelers from smallest to largest. This removes all backlash from the rotating elements. From the timing mark and then reverse rotation to a clockwise direction until the timing marks line up.
Here’s an easy way to check for the proper lash…start with the largest feeler, try it. Check the rear cylinder exhaust valve clearance. A slight drag is all that is necessary. They call them feelers because you have to feel the gap distance without changing it by force or by being too loose.
If the lash is within shop manual specs, then leave it alone and go to the front of the rear cylinder and check the lash of the intake valve. Continue this process until you have a feeler that goes in with a slight drag. If the feeler doesn’t go in then try the next size smaller.
Turn the set screw in or out to adjust the clearance to shop manual specs. Using a 12mm wrench, loosen the nut (aka polylock) enough to allow the allen set screw to rotate at least a half a turn. Looking at each valve you can see a nut and allen socket head set screw (4mm).
At this point you should have checked both the intake and exhaust valve clearances while the flywheel was on the “T” mark (TDC “Top Dead Center”). You may have to repeat the adjustment several times until you get the knack of how to lock down the jam nut without changing the set clearance.Exhaust. The set screw tends to move during tightening of the jam nut.
If they are loose, then go ahead and check them using the feelers. Remember to check both valves for looseness. If they are the same as what you adjusted them to the first time, then it is a safe bet the front settings are correct. Once you’ve done all the valve adjustments, and especially if you’re doing it for the first time, it would be a good idea to rotate the engine to the rear cylinder timing mark “T” and re-check the rear cylinder valve clearances.
Also make sure the seal area is clean. Be sure to check the rubber gasket on all four valve covers for cracks, breaks or any other obvious problems. Now you can put everything back together by reversing the procedure above. To the same timing mark.T he hard part is over.
Chances are, that you did the ajustments right and that you should have no problems. If they don’t make any noise, then they are too tight. You should expect to hear the valves clack away, but they shouldn’t be loud.
They say I have big shoulders…among other things.Cut off ½ the length of the short side of the 4mm allen wrench used on the set screw. Don’t hesitate to give me feedback. All comments, pictures and diagrams are welcomed to make this page more complete. This is a good cost-saving step towards an efficient running engine.
1/06 Note: This Tech Article was created from the VOC site data.
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